I’ve been to the Algarve 21 times – here’s how you can dodge the crowds

Some towns, like Ferragudo, still feel authentic (Picture: Getty Images)

I can’t remember the first time I went to The Algarve, but I know I’ve always loved it.

As a kid, I’d visit almost every summer, and over the years I’ve notched up more than 20 trips to this beautiful part of Portugal.

Sunshine and a pool is always an easy recipe for the perfect holiday, but as I got older, Portuguese seafood dishes became my favourite meals and the tiled mosaics adorning the streets seemed to get more beautiful each year.

I remember the first time I saw the Nando’s logo and being confused — up until then, I’d only seen that weird-looking chicken (real name: the Rooster of Barcelos) on fridge magnets in Portuguese souvenir shops.

Of course, I’m not the only person to have fallen in love with this Atlantic gem — far from it.

Millions of tourists visit the Algarve each year (Picture: Getty Images)

Between 2013 and 2019, Portugal experienced a major surge in tourism, with the number of visitors almost doubling. Last year, 4.4 million Brits flocked to the country, many of them heading to the popular resorts of the Algarve.

However, much like neighbouring Spain, where locals have complained of overcrowding and short-term rentals wiping out affordable housing, protests against over-tourism have also gripped Portugal.

In Lisbon, demonstrators gathered outside the Portuguese parliament calling on the government to scrap new holiday accommodation licenses.

Protests, like this one in Barcelona, took place across Spain and Portugal (Picture: Getty Images)

In the Algarve, in the party resort of Albufeira, residents demanded sanctions against rowdy tourists, which brought hefty fines for those who defy a strict code of conduct.

But with cheap flights and almost-guaranteed summer sunshine, it’s unlikely that Brits will be ending their love affair with Portugal anytime soon.

So, if you can’t stay away from the Algarve, but you’re looking to escape the crowds, try these lesser-known spots I grew up exploring.

Silves

A staple part of our family holiday to the Algarve always included a boat trip on the River Arade, inland towards the historic town of Silves.

Take a trip to Silves castle and admire the views (Picture: Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Cruising the calm waters, with lunch and a (usually too warm) vino verde is a novel way to travel. Tours on a traditional fishing boat depart from Portimão, with prices from €35.

Silves feels like a time warp. Stroll along cobbled streets before heading up to the imposing ochre-coloured castle, which costs just €2.80 to enter.

The fortress dates back to Roman times, but was expanded when the city was under Moorish rule, way back in the 8th-century.

Take a trip on a traditional fishing boat to Silves (Picture: Getty Images)

At the time, Silves was an important political city and port — the current Silves Cathedral stands on the site of mosque dating back to this period.

Every summer, the castle plays host to Sunset Secrets, a roster of events that includes live music, food stalls, and wellness activites.

Caldas de Monchique

A drive inland will take you to the Monchique Mountains and, nestled in the valleys, you’ll find the picture-perfect spa village of Caldas.

Away from the tourists on the region’s beaches, it’s a different vibe up here — lush greenery shades a small market square lined with independent boutiques and a handful of restaurants.

The small village is nestled in the mountains (Picture: Getty Images)

Be sure to try the famous Caldas delicacy: pão com chouriço, a warm crusty bread roll, filled with chorizo.

The best are at O Tasco, just off the main square, where the snack is served daily, directly from the wood-fired oven. If you go in winter, it’s a cosy spot, often with a roaring fire.

Then, it’s time to head into the woodlands above Caldas, where you’ll find water trickling from brooks and waterfalls into a series of pools.

The thermal waters that flow here have been used since Roman times, and are said to have healing properties.

The thermal waters of Caldas are said to have healing properties (Picture: Getty Images)

If you’re willing to spend, head to the Villa Thermal des Caldas de Monchique Spa Resort for some serious R&R.

As a child, I was convinced fairies lived in Caldas. All I’ll say is that no one’s ever shown me proof that they’re not here.

Cape St Vincent

Disclaimer: you’ll need to pack your jacket for this one.

Eleven-year-old me never looked forward to a trip to Cape St Vincent, perhaps the most well-known of my recommendations.

Cape St Vincent is a forbidding landscape (Picture: Getty Images)

A visit usually meant an hour or so in the car (depending, of course where you’re staying) and stepping out into blustering wind — it’s famously one of the windiest places in Portugal.

But there’s something about Cape St Vincent that always seemed a bit mysterious to me.

The most southwestern tip of the country, for thousands of years it was known as ‘finis terrae’ or the ‘end of the world’ as it marked the limit of where western explorers had travelled.

As a child, I was convinced that if I squinted hard enough, I might see Africa in the distance. (You can actually do this, from Tarifa, in Spain.)

A sign points to Cape St Vincent’s famous lighthouse (Picture: Getty Images)

It’s from here that Henry the Navigator’s expeditions set sail back in the 15th century, and today, the Cape’s lighthouse is still one of Europe’s brightest.

It can be seen from about 60km away, beaming out onto what is still part of a busy shipping route.

But the true USP of Cape St Vincent is the view.

The cliffs themselves are staggering, varying between 60 and 80 metres, set on a background of blue sky and crashing waves. It’s kind of scary, but pretty awe-inspiring at the same time.

Afterwards, drive just a few minutes to popular Sagres for a galão coffee or famous Sagres beer (which is actually only named after the town, rather than brewed here), in some welcome sunshine.

Ferragudo

I’ve saved the best until last. Ferragudo is a quaint fishing village, not far from popular Albuferia.

Growing up, this place felt untouched by tourists, and while it’s now getting more attention from those in the know, you can still feel like you’re experiencing authentic Algarve here.

People watch in Ferragudo town square (Picture: Getty Images)

Stroll along the cobbled streets and stop for a coffee and a tosta mista (a glorified toasted ham and cheese sarnie — but they somehow do them differently in the Algarve).

Wander along the harbour, where you’ll see fishermen bringing in their catch, or chefs in restaurants, barbecuing the fish.

There are beautiful beaches to spend your days at here.

Praia De Grande is the biggest, and is home to Restaurante Praia Grande, which has amazing sea views — plus beachside bars serving delicious seafood. From monkfish kebabs to grilled swordfish, you can’t go wrong.

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