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Lisa Pittman is a certified travel coach who has been to more countries than most people can name. She tells our Travel Editor Alice Murphy about a lesser-visited Caribbean island that everyone should go to.
Travelling is a huge part of who I am. So far, I have been to 114 countries, all 50 US States, and all 7 continents, as well as 17 Caribbean islands.
When I am asked for my favourite, it’s always a hard choice between Puerto Rico and St Martin, but I usually go with the latter for several reasons.
But first, some housekeeping, because this place is something of a geographic curiosity.
St Martin is a dual-nation island shared between the Dutch and the French: the French territory is called Saint Martin, the Dutch, Sint Maarten.
The Dutch side commonly uses US dollars and the French side uses euros.
It’s a transportation hub for the Caribbean’s Leeward Islands, served by most major American airlines and some European ones, which means getting there is more straightforward than you’d think.
Once you arrive, it’s easy to rent a car and drive around to all the best sights without needing to rely on a tour guide. The roads are in good shape.
If you’re up for an action-packed day, I recommend driving up to Sentry Hill, a lookout with stunning views from Atlantic side.
Then scoot on to the Henry William Bell II Monument for an incredible panorama of the other side of the island.
Be sure to stop by the monument that marks the border between the Dutch and French side (it’s on a busy street, so mind the traffic).
Have lunch on whichever side you’re not staying on, and if you have time, go to Sunset Beach Bar, which is on beautiful Maho Beach at the end of the Princess Juliana International Airport landing strip.
You’ve probably seen the videos: tourists with necks craned upward, as Boeing 787 Dreamliners swoop in to land less than 100 feet above their heads.
All of this makes it a haven for aviation geeks and thrill-seekers.
In peak season, there can be between 50 and 70 flights landing every day, almost close enough to touch.
It’s a nice experience, but not something I would spend a lot of time doing. We went for about an hour, got a drink, and watched a couple of planes land. That was enough.
While there is no denying the European influence, Afro-Caribbean culture is deeply woven throughout every aspect of St Martin, especially the food.
Local restaurants (called ‘lolo’) are full of incredibly rich and tasty dishes, and you’ll find no shortage of rustic beach shacks that serve £2 beers with priceless sunset views.
Being an island, the seafood is naturally excellent, but I especially enjoyed the curried goat and jerk chicken, potato salad and plantains, which round out meals with a bit of sweetness.
My favourite meal was at a lolo called Rosemary’s Creole Seafood, right on Marigot Bay on the French side of the island.
The pan-fried snapper was fresh, flavourful, and all-round delicious. Same for the ribs with guavaberry sauce and the jerk chicken, both of which had meat falling off the bone. Very satisfying.
As the larger half of the island, the French St. Martin claims most of its beaches, including the quiet Happy Bay (between the capital, Marigot, and Grand Case), which requires just a short hike to lose the crowds.
West of Marigot, Baie Rouge, or Red Bay, offers snorkelling around a rocky point.
I recommend staying in one of the small locally-owned villas in Marigot, or along the Boardwalk in Phillipsburg, the Dutch side capital, like we did.
On the advice of a local guide, we booked a room at the Holland Beach House Hotel, which gave us easy access to both beach and town, as well as plenty of shops and restaurants.
The location made it easy to get our bearings, and because we were on a rather busy road, it was easy to get taxis when we wanted to go to other parts of the island.
We felt very safe everywhere we went, day and night. I was there with my partner, but I would definitely feel comfortable going back solo.
Beyond the island itself, St Martin is a great jumping off point to Anguilla (20-minute ferry), Saint Barthélemy (St. Barths; 45-minute ferry), and Saba (90-minute ferry or 12-minute flight).
I should say that I didn’t have time to go to these on my last trip, but all are at the top of my list for next time.
More Caribbean islands to explore
As told to Alice Murphy.
Lisa Pittman is a certified travel coach with an extensive travel portfolio and founder of The Travel Docta, which helps Black women set intentions for international travel.
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