Croatia’s second city in shoulder season — no crowds, 23°C temperatures, and £22 flights

Spend the shoulder season in Split when crowds are scarce (Picture: Sophie-May Williams)

For the past 17 years, Croatia has been on my bucket list. My interest in the Balkan nation started in school, when our form groups were divided by country. 

I was placed in Croatia, a place visually defined by sparkling coastlines, sweeping vineyards and turquoise lakes. 

It’s also steeped in history. After the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in World War I, Croatia joined the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes in 1918, later renamed Yugoslavia.

Then, following the collapse of communism, Croatia held its first free elections in 1990 and declared independence one year later.

A few weeks ago, I finally made the trip — swapping summer for shoulder season in Split and the spectacular archipelago that surrounds it.

With £22 flights, no crowds, and 23°C temperatures (the perfect temperature for exploring ancient relics and al fresco dining), it’s a holiday for every type of traveller.

And, if you needed more convincing, Time Out has just named Croatia as the best place for self-catering villas.

Here’s everything I recommend in the city and beyond.

History in the 21st century

Split, Croatia’s second city, is perched on the Adriatic Coast of the Dalmatia region.

Rich with culture and ancient history, it’s home to the Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 — and a feast for the eyes.

Recognised as one of the world’s most complete and best-preserved architectural sites, it was built in the late 3rd and early 4th centuries A.D. by the Roman Emperor Diocletian. 

The complex includes a Roman palace and medieval cathedral, built between original Romanesque and Baroque structures.

Game of Thrones fans will recognise Diocletian’s Palace: it served as Daenerys Targaryen’s throne room and dragon dungeon.

Ancient architecture in Split (Picture: Sophie-May Williams)

Strolling through the ancient city is a unique experience.

While its imposing edifices make for your very own film set — especially in April, when Croatia welcomes around 1.2 million tourists, four million less than August — it’s also a great example of an archaeological site existing alongside modern life. 

Unlike places like Pompeii, Split’s core is buzzing with bars, restaurants, shops and cafes.

For four days, we used this as our base, grabbing coffees, beers, and gelato in between exploring the wider area.

Food and drink heaven

Croatia’s Dalmatian cuisine is true culinary paradise.

While there are obvious Italian influences in its extensive use of olive oil, seafood, risotto, and gnocchi (the region was under Venetian rule for nearly 400 years), Split’s food scene holds its own. 

And, the best thing about visiting in shoulder season is the choice of restaurants you don’t have to queue for. 

On our first night, we slipped into Villa Spiza, a traditional — and affordable — Dalmatian restaurant in the heart of the city. With just three tables positioned by the open kitchen, we had a front row view of the action.

Ćevapi in the sunshine (Picture: Sophie-May Williams)

Dinner was a smorgasbord of Dalmatian prosciutto, aged for 36 months in the salty embrace of the Adriatic Sea, and Paški sir, sheep cheese from Pag Island. All in, with two glasses of local red wine, the bill came to around €25 (£21).

We also dined at an unnamed cosy spot where locals and in-the-know tourists sit together on long benches, sharing food and conversation.

Indulging in a hearty fare of squid ink risotto and beef stew gnocchi, we chatted to a local businessman who offered us a shot of raki and a taste of Zinfandel.

He told us that the wine originates from Kaštela, a coastal town just outside Split, and that it’s the region’s best-kept secret.

But we already knew this — our taxi driver from the airport proudly declared that Crljenak Kaštelansk, a rare Croatian grape, was the ancient ancestor of Italian Primitivo and American Zinfandel.

Secret or not, the wine was chef’s kiss.

For snacks, there’s nothing like Ćevapi, Balkan minced-meat sausages served in fluffy flatbreads with raw onions and ajvar, a red pepper spread.

Gateway to the Split archipelago

I love exploring places beyond their major cities— it’s how you get to see real life, away from the viral trends that grow legs on TikTok and Instagram.

After a day or two in Split, take the short £8 ferry ride from the main harbour to Brač, Dalmatia’s largest island. It’s frequently touted as having one of Europe’s prettiest towns, Pučišća.

But honestly, it’s stunning everywhere you look.

From the charming, cobbled backstreets (where we stumbled across a local wedding party singing traditional folk songs) to the serene harbour, the beaches also have some of the clearest water I’ve ever seen.

Beautiful Brač (Picture: Sophie-May Williams)

Zlatni Rat in Bol is one of Europe’s best beaches, complete with a white-pebble spit that shifts shape with the wind and tide.

Banj Beach in Supetar was also a highlight. It’s still waters made for an ideal swimming spot.

After Brač, you can continue your journey through Split’s archipelago, which houses the majority of Croatia’s over 1,200 islands and reefs.

Notable spots include Hvar, considered the sunniest place in Europe, historic Korčula, and the quieter Šolta, famed for its honey, olives, and wine.

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